mario. had some good results, so i suppose the effort was worth it. seiko have a real problem getting heads into the field. i don't think the expected the amount of failures that they had..
i believe that using the new head flush jig and/or the cleaning sheet, then head life can be extended beyond what we've already seen.
going back to the jig and cleaning sheet. it's something that seiko are bringing out for the 100s but will be used on the 64s. the sheet is a great idea, allowing you to soak the heads overnight out of the capping assembly. seiko say this should recover a lot of the nozzles that would have normally be dead.
ournigelmansell wrote: going back to the jig and cleaning sheet. it's something that seiko are bringing out for the 100s but will be used on the 64s. the sheet is a great idea, allowing you to soak the heads overnight out of the capping assembly. seiko say this should recover a lot of the nozzles that would have normally be dead.
oh darn... this looks like the cap used on mutoh toucan. but on toucan this sh*t is obligatory and is a real pain in the neck - you get too many dirty ;) but indeed, that might be a useful thing, especially if a good solvent is used - not capping fluid but something... harder *evil laugh* hahaha!
I'm lost guys!!!!! is this some kind of 007 secret deal? What are you guys talking about? Sorry for being nosy:)
We all know we have a wonderful machine but maintance is an obligue specially the heads, and thats what its all about - keeping heads alive, getting rid of the clogged ink which accumulates in the heads, which i think is a very important issue.
Sometimes, normal and strong cleans of the printer will not get rid of the clogged ink, so other options are available: Cleaning baths for the heads as the ultrasonic and just heard about the jig and cleaning sheets available at seiko. Never tried any of these before so sorry cant tell the difference. Looking for info is the no.1 priority at the moment.
the sheet i've seen, for you people who have yet to be informed, is basically a sponge like material which you can park the heads on overnight. this is done in the center of the printer bed, and you soak the sponge with cleaning fluid. seiko say this works far better than the cap fill.
ournigelmansell wrote: the sheet i've seen, for you people who have yet to be informed, is basically a sponge like material which you can park the heads on overnight. this is done in the center of the printer bed, and you soak the sponge with cleaning fluid. seiko say this works far better than the cap fill.
That's like... the most ironic of all things about Seiko, you know? Because, i will tell you - one reason why we like Seiko so much is the LACK OF SUCH SPONGE! :) Because we hate the fu**ing sponges in our other machines, which are not used as cap fill, but as an OBLIGATORY thing every night :)
joshie, you think these sponges won't work then? are they a step back for seiko?
i think they are trying to claw back some of the dead heads that can't be recovered in the field. i don't think they expected so many nozzle failures and have worked to get a user-oriented solution.
nozzle failures are still something i have to experience. i hope i will never have to deal with it.
is it something that won't work? no, it will. but that's the problem. seiko is supposed to work without highly cumbersome and dirty stuff like that ;) i personally have enough of sponges with my other two machines, i don't wanna buy it for Seiko ;) plus if you happen to spill the solvent on the machine it will eat away the plastic - have you noticed it? ;)
but yes, i do believe that this is something many users should buy - anyone who is using Seiko only for one shift or making long weekend breaks, they should sure use it.
I am having a problem with a totally clogged Magenta Head, but a friend had an extra cyan head that he loaned to me.
Basically for the installation it went like this.
Flushed out the Cyan with a syringe prior to installing.
NO Alignment tool. There is not much play room with the screws but after securing them I noticed that the head was not squarely aligned so I loosened the screws, squared it to the eye and re tightened.
Then I ran a small test print. I needed to adjust the front/back and my first guess was .03 adjustment. Lucky me,, spot on the mark. The L/R was overlaping a bit and when I did the adjustment, I went the wrong way.
Nailed it on the 4th attempt due to writing down my movements.
Also note that I have a Lupe from my old dark room days and was able to measure ;) but any strong magnification IMO should do fine.
I would love hear any arguments on this, because the price for an alignment tool is a Rape!
joshie wrote:plus if you happen to spill the solvent on the machine it will eat away the plastic - have you noticed it? ;)
Being that my machine was a restoration project, the vovers were a mess!
I used 250 gr paper and scuffed the covers and then applied a new color coat (SEM Bumper Coater is great for plastics) then a couple days later I sprayed semi gloss Urathane.
The Machine looks great and drops of solvents no longer eat away the covers or paint.
With the head that was loaned to me, it fires great with the exception of 4 or 6 nozzles.
I have other head on the machine that have a lot of clooged nozzels , but I just step up the resoloution to 360x720 and that more than compensates for the clogs.
One thing that is for certian, the more I run the Seiko the better it prints. This IMO is due to the ink actually softening up and clogs and pushing through.
-- Edited by karst41 on Monday 28th of February 2011 02:13:41 PM
yes, it is very important to leave print on all the time for automatic cleaning, right tempreture and at least print every 2 days. Regarding aligning of heads I prefer to adjust them on my eyes, test a piece of print and align head until satisfactory result. I had the printer for over 6 years now and get quite use to it.
when i have some nozzles misfiring what i do is i remove head, and flush the head using large syrings, soak head overnight and normally be cleared.
I was thinking about doing the same thing for the Black Printhead, and am glad to hear that is what you do.
For those reading this part of the conversation, I would caution to pull, clean and reset One Head at a time so you will have a fixed point of referance for re alignment.
wont work each time but i would say 85 to 90% works fine. Make sure to use clean syring and clean solution, and when injecting solution carefully do not make too much pressure, gently pressing it down until clear solution is ejected from the bottom of the head, and never suck ink back, that might damage the head.
